Expert tips for flooring PROs and DIYers alike. How to save time, and do it the right way. Focus on nail-down installation and avoiding problems, getting the best performance for years to come.
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SCRIPT: Remember, before you start any project always refer to the instruction sheet that came with your specific floor. Now the first thing you want to do is ensure you have the right underlayment, have let your planks acclimate to your space, and have your tools ready to go.
They include: ● A tape measure ● Chalk line ● 6-foot level ● Drill ● Hammer ● Saw ● Pry Bar ● Painter’s tape ● Wood Glue ● Floor nailer
Next, clean and secure the subfloor, and remove any base molding. When installing your hardwood floor, it’s essential you leave room for it to expand and contract, otherwise the boards can buckle and snap. So leave the recommended expansion space between the flooring and any walls or obstacles.
Check that all doors will swing open with enough clearance over the new floor. You may have to cut a door short, which is fine in most cases, but never try to cut a metal door.
You also want to cut around any door jambs or other permanent objects so your floor can slide beneath it. Now we’re ready to get started with installation itself.
First we want to determine which way to install the planks. Typically the best way to lay your floor is parallel to the longest unbroken wall, and perpendicular to your subfloor joists.
To avoid an awkwardly narrow final row, we’ll need to plan that out in advance.
Measure the distance between the starting wall and the finish wall, then divide this number by the width of the flooring planks. Take the number after the decimal, and multiply it by the length of one plank. That will give you the size of your final row. If it’s just a sliver, cut an inch or two off the first row before starting installation.
Next, establish a working line. In two places near corners, measure out from the starting wall the width of one plank plus your recommended expansion space.
Snap a chalk line connecting each spot, creating a line parallel to your starting wall.
Then place spacers against the wall to maintain your expansion gap while you install.
Working left to right, lay the first plank in the left-hand corner with the tongue edge facing toward you. Using long, straight planks, continue laying the first row until you reach the other wall.
When you get to the last board in the row, cut it to fit. Once laid out, pre-drill and nail the row of boards about one inch from the back edge. Countersink the finish nails using a nail punch, then confirm the first row is straight.
Pre-drill and blind-nail the first few rows until you can use a pneumatic nailer.
After you’ve installed the first three rows, “rack out” about 100 square feet of flooring and begin nailing everything in place, always inspecting for dimpling and defects as you go.
Pull from several boxes to mix up the board color and create a random look. Don’t force boards or pound them together because you can damage the edges.
For each row, stagger the end joints by at least 8 inches, paying special attention not to create H-patterns or stair-step patterns. This not only looks better, but it secures the structural integrity of your floor.
Continue like this until you get to the final row, which will most likely need to be cut lengthwise, or “ripped” to fit properly. You can reserve boards with damaged tongues for this row, since you’ll be cutting the tongues off any way. Measure each board and cut it to match the distance to the wall plus your expansion gap. When cutting, make sure to cut off the tongue side of the board, rather than the side that snaps in. You may want to use a pry bar to set the row firmly in place before nailing it.
Once that final row is installed, your floor installation is complete! Congratulations! All that’s left to do is add your baseboards, and use moldings to cover areas where your floor transitions to other surfaces.
